Antumbra KNIT: Build Diary #8

It’s like Plaits, but it’s Antumbra working their magic again for this cute little KNIT. How did it all go? Perfectly, thanks for asking, Antumbra’s redesigns are made for simpletons such as myself. It’s paint by numbers for Eurorack, and boy am I running out of money! LETS GET SMOKEY.

ANTUMBRA Knit bare PCB on holder
Prepped and ready for sexual doctor.

This little guy right here is the brains of the operation. Generally Antumbra builds are separated into these cute motherboard/controller board combos. Which is great for some things, but these designs also lead to me over checking these connections with my multimeter due to my severe PCBOCD.

Be sure to talk to someone if you are experiencing PCBOCD. It’s important, even if it isn’t leading to shorted connections, on your boards or in your real life.

Sorry. Moving on.

Antumbra KNIT PCBs populated
All ready for flashing, and a lil PCB scrub.

Antumbra KNIT is a tight little build, it crams all of that gooey oscillator goodness into 6HP, and it’s still skiffable with a 30mm depth. But, the only thing that is rough for us hand-solderers is the crystal.

First, my method involves painting a little solder paste on to the back of the crystal with a toothpick. For this particular crystal, an 815-ABMM2-8-E2T, I put a little on every pad except the first pin/pad on the crystal. For this pad (circled below) I left it clean, and presoldered the PCB where it would sit.

Diagram showing pin 1 on crystal
It doesn't really matter which pad you leave clean, but leaving pin 1 clean just makes it easy to remember

Next, plop the crystal down, and heat the solder that is already on the PCB. Once it is sitting properly, let the solder cool, and then apply heat to every other pad while holding the crystal in place. This is where our little Bob Ross painting adventure from earlier pays off. The solder paste will reflow from the heat of your iron, and you will have one well soldered little crystal, with no reflow oven or SMD rework station!

STLink V2 Pinout for Flashing
This is the pinout I use for flashing with SWD on the ST-Link V2

And finally, flashing with the ST-Link V2 is pretty simple for these sorts of builds. JTAG is always nice because I don’t have to pull out my jumper cables. You could read the manual and come up with this pinout on your own, but why not steal it from me, or Andy over at Andy’s Homemade Guitars! Andy goes by forestcaver on the internets. Thank goodness for him and his brain, or my CARA’s would be so terribly uncalibrated.

STAY TUNED FOR SOME HOT HOT ANTUMBRA CARA BUILDS.

Anyways… here is the wiring diagram for programming SWD devices I stole from him.

STLINK v2 Pinout Diagram for SWD
You-Da-Man-Dy.

She flashed up no problem, as pictured below. Remember, while you have to supply power to the chip separate from the flashing interface, always make sure you’re not powering your module from two separate places. Some flashing interfaces provide all the juice the chip needs, and getting your Eurorack power involved is just going to get things SMOKEY. And not in a good way.

Flashing Process for Antumbra KNIT

And that is about it, my nonexistent beautiful young reader. Thank you for coming along this journey with me. The Antumbra KNIT, look at it glow.

Antumbra KNIT finished and working
All those sweet sweet digital waves, ready for wigglin'.

Keep those mouses on swing my virulent hoard of loyal readers. Is anyone out there?

Dad?

Quick Links

Mouser BOM – No pots, jacks, or M3 screws

KNIT Build Documents

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